Another Easter in Calabria: Goddesses, Goats, and Lanterns

Su Guillory
Apr 10
3 min read

We Americans revere Christmas like no other holiday, but in Italy, it's Easter that reigns supreme. In fact, there's an entire week of religious events before Easter. And...unwilling to let the holiday go, there's even a bonus celebration the day after!

Here's how I spent this Easter in Calabria.

The Arrival of the Goddess Persephone

I had the chance to join a group that visited the mountain town of Bova a week before Easter. There, they had a special procession that has roots older than Christianity.

Women create "dolls" to represent the goddess Persephone, who, it is said, returns from Hades in the spring (that's why everything starts blooming. Her mother, Demeter, is the goddess of agriculture, so her happiness seeing her daughter again brings the spring). The figures are made of palm branches and olive leaves, and are decorated with flowers and fruit.

They're carried throughout the village and then are taken to the church to be blessed. Yet another example of the pagan roots in Calabria being connected to religious traditions. This part of Italy was once ruled by Greece, so there are a lot of instances like this of Greek/Roman mythology and pagan traditions that pop up.

The Last Supper

The Thursday before Easter, there was, of course, a mass, but this one was special because they reenacted the Last Supper. Fra's father was asked to play an apostle, so I had reason to go.

Twelve men, both young and old, dressed in robes and sandals, sat on either side of the altar. After the priest gave his sermon, he, playing the role of Jesus, carefully washed the feet of each apostle.

He then gave each bread, wine, and fruit, and hugged them goodbye. When Juda arrived...well, we all know what he did. "Jesus" gave him double the gifts to account for his greed, and threw a bag of money on the floor for him to take with him. Che drama!

My Favorite: La Naca

Friday night was La Naca, my favorite procession with the trees covered in lanterns. It almost didn't happen! It rained until right before it was supposed to start, and then the weather held the rest of the night.

This was my first time living in Davoli for the event, and it felt different. I know so many more people now, so it was a lovely time to chat with new friends.

A Quiet Family Easter

We returned to church Saturday night for midnight mass. This was my first time attending this mass, and I was taken by surprise by more drama. Jesus rose again! A statue of him was lifted up behind the altar, accompanied by loud banging and smoke. I think I gasped, "oh my goodness," because I did NOT expect it!

By Sunday morning, I was exhausted from two late nights in a row, but I rallied for lunch. We had Mamma's traditional meal: lasagna (with homemade spinach pasta, made in part by yours truly) and lamb. Yum.

One Last Thing...Pasquetta

Because all of this wasn't enough, Italians also take Monday off and have another big meal called Pasquetta. We invited the Americans: Gina, who's been here for more than a year, and a new couple who just moved to Soverato.

First, we were invited to have l'impanata with our friends who raise goats and sheep and make ricotta. This is a dish served for breakfast: it's fresh ricotta with hard biscotti mixed in. Delicious!