Ballo del Ciuccio: Witnessing the Dance of the Donkey

Just when I think I've experienced every event in Davoli, the Ballo del Ciuccio happened.

A donkey. Fireworks.

What could be better?

The Donkey Dance

I'm not sure if I asked Davolese what the Ballo del Ciuccio represented they would know. AI tells me it harkens back to when Saracen invaders threatened the Ionian coast. The donkey, ever a symbol of hard work and perseverance in Calabria, becomes a symbol of overcoming these invaders.

It's also supposed to scare away evil spirits and bad luck.

The dance happened after the procession and Mass held for the Madonna Addolorata (Adored Madonna/Mary). Families with strollers or young kiddos, elderly women holding one another by the elbows, and men still in their rough, worn work clothes gathered at the bridge or stairs near our house.

As the sun set, a burly man slid a half-carapace of papier-mâché donkey over his head. The donkey's ears, head, and tail had metal wires poking out.

FZZZZZ!

The wires were lit, and the festivities began. As an accordion and band played music, the man/donkey began to dance. Fireworks zinged from his ears, and children (and I) laughed in delight.

He pranced back and forth across the cobblestone streets, never missing a beat.

At one point, the fireworks began to pop and throw flames. The woman standing next to me, also a first-timer, screamed and hid behind me. We weren't sure if this was supposed to happen or if it was simply pyrotechnics gone wrong.

Judging from the cheers from the crowd, we determined it was the former and stayed just out of range of the errant cinders flying from the ciuccio.

The party ended with an extravagant fireworks performance in the sky. (Italians, particularly Calabrians, adore their fireworks!) A small fire started near where they were set off, but fortunately, firemen were standing by, and the flames were quickly put out. (This comes after a fireworks spectacle at the beginning of the summer started a large fire that took hours to put out. Needless to say, the organizers had learned their lesson and were doubly prepared).

As the crowd dispersed and the smoke cleared, it felt like the end of something. It was a long, hot summer filled with festas, food, and fun. But now, the season was over. We would move into fall and start burrowing for our winter nest.