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It's That In-Between Season in Calabria

Late May and early June is my favorite time in Calabria. The flowers are in full bloom, it's warm (even enough to swim, for the brave few of us!), and the energy is picking up in Soverato.

Back to Life

All winter, the lidi were shuttered against the bitter winds and storms. But now, there are signs of life. The smell of fresh paint and the sound of saws tell me that the owners are preparing for the summer crowds.

As for the beaches in front of the lidi, they're being smoothed down by tractors, the last of the dry weeds swept away. The beaches are covered by fresh, new, brightly-colored umbrellas and chairs in anticipation of the families who will gather to escape the heat by the sea.

The trucks carrying carnival rides have planted themselves in an empty lot by the sea. Every day, a new one unfolds like a map, preparing to induce screams of delight from kids of all ages.

The Thrum of Nightlife

While it's not yet to the fever pitch it will be by late July, already the nightlife is picking up. A few discoteche are announcing aperitivi, and soon will have thumping dance beats that fill the night sky.

Soon, the bancarelle, or market stalls, will arrive and set up their wares to sell. My favorite from last year was a jeweler from Sicily who made rings, earrings, and bracelets with crystals. We'll see who we spend our money with this year.

The Calm Before the Storm

This summer there will be crowds. Zero parking. Late-night drunken antics in the street below our apartment.

And there will be infectiously fun dance nights with my friends. Late-night gelato. Car adventures. Suntans and beach naps.

I've waited all winter for this.

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